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Our First ATC Video is up!

ATC has joined the digital age (well, I guess we were kinda there already but now we’re even more digital) and we’ve loaded our...

How to Take the Caspian Sea Ferry

Here is the process you must follow when trying to get a ferry, since many people want this information and no one else provides it in one...

Leaving Central Asia

As we depart Central Asia, we’re hit with a bittersweet feeling partially of relief and partly of sadness. Central Asia is like no...

Goodbye Turkmenistan

After two months in the arid deserts of Turkmenistan, it is time to move towards water. So we’re setting out sights on the infamous...

Darvaza Remix

Owing to a misplaced video of our last trip to the Darvaza crater, as well as an urge to try out new grilling methods and camping...

And The Journey Continues

With a little help from our friends, OK a lot of help via their visa agent, we are finally all ready for onward travel to Baku,...

Sipping Beer on Alexander’s Fortress Walls

Sultan Sanjar, who referred to himself boldly as Alexander the II or ‘Sultan of the World’ died of a broken heart in 1157. The...

The Ashgabat Zoo

In my youth we would visit zoos all over the world. I’ve seen some of the most amazing zoos humanity has to offer, at the top of the...

Sojourn to Nissa

Yesterday we got in the 4×4 and took an off road expeditionary tour of Nissa,which was once a Parthian capital in the 3rd century BC....

Central Asian Money Habits

One of the strangest, and most frustrating things about traveling in Central Asia has been the double standards related to costs. As...

Visiting the Gates of Hell, Darvaza Turkmenistan

Dante readers beware, the “Gates of Hell” are very real. They are located in the middle of a vast, uninhabitable desert (not...

Swimming with Snakes

After the very long drive from Nohur to the Turkmenbasy on the Caspian Sea, and searching for a place to stay, we all ended up at the...

Fighting the Caspian Sea Virus

When we tell people that we live on the road, their eyes light up and they inevitably mutter, glazed-eyed: “man, I wish I could do...

The Push-Push Bazaar

For many Silk Route travelers, the Push-Push bazaar outside Ashgabat is one of the greatest highlights of the road. The bazaar spans...

Nohur to Turkmenbashi on the Ripples Roadway

Last night in Nohur we slept on the floor, atop rugs and a small pad. Throughout the night we slept off and on as dogs fought in the alleys...

Nohur The Last Call to Prayer

The small and relatively untouched village of Nohur rests in an unmarked valley of the Kopet Dag Mountains, which make up the border of...

Dinosaur Eggs on the Journey to the Caspian

We decided to take a weekend trip out to the Caspian Sea from Ashgabat.  Leaving mid-afternoon on Friday we planned to stop in the small...

Hajji Mosque in Geokdepe

This afternoon we ventured out of Ashgabat to see the museum to the Turkmen’s last stand against the Russians. 15,000 men, women and...

Cableway to the Iranian Border

From Ashgabat there is a cable car into the mountains that make up the southern border of Turkmenistan with Iran. For 2 Minat (75 cents)...

Statistics from Shanghai to Ashgabat

Originally, the trip was planned as a Shanghai to Ashgabat adventure. Well, we have an announcement to make—we have decided to keep on...

Into Turkmenistan by Foot

The rest of the day, including two long walks through no-mans-land between customs in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan seemed easy after dealing...

Goodbye Uzbekistan

After recovering the cell phone in Bukhara, we decided it was time to move on as we had been in Uzbekistan for almost 25 days and in...

Best Foods of the Silk Route

Lamb kebabs – Urumqi, Xinjiang. Urumqi has an amazing night market near the park with beer, kebabs, nan, plov and other Central Asian...

Top 5 Illegal Things We’ve Seen in Central Asia

1. A marijuana plant growing on the side of the road in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. 2. Multiple people on the train shaking the border guards...

Shanghai to Ashgabat, the Plan

As many of you know, I was laid off from my financial job on New Year’s Eve (classy timing). But this upsetting twist has been an...